As you walk through the bustling streets of Hyderabad, the aromatic scent of bun maska (bread and butter), hot samosas, and creamy Irani chai greets you—a reminder of the Persian-style cafes that have become iconic in Indian culture.
These Irani cafes, characterized by their marble-topped tables and vintage decor, have been an integral part of India’s gastronomic landscape for over a century. Their appeal has even influenced global dining, inspiring several modern cafes abroad.
Emerging in the 18th and 19th centuries, these cafes took root in cities like Mumbai and Pune during a wave of Persian immigration. Hyderabad, too, boasts a vibrant history with these establishments, enriched by its cultural tapestry woven with Persian heritage.
Unfortunately, the charm of Irani cafes is under threat. Owners attribute their decline to rising costs, fierce competition from fast-food chains, and changing consumer preferences.
Today, Hyderabad is home to the second-largest number of Irani cafes after Mumbai, a legacy from the 19th century when the city was a hub for Iranian commerce. The famed Niloufer Café is named after an Ottoman princess, highlighting the historical connections that enrich these venues.
Despite the cafes’ historical significance, the numbers are dwindling. From approximately 450 cafes two decades ago, only about 125 remain, according to local restaurateurs.
Jaleel Farooq Rooz, owner of The Grand Hotel, noted, “We used to serve 8,000-9,000 cups of chai daily. Now, that number has halved.” Factors such as the IT boom in the city, rising real estate prices, and inflation have led to a significant decline in patronage.
Many Irani cafes traditionally operate from rented spaces, which have become unaffordable for some owners. Moreover, the younger generation is either uninterested in continuing the family legacy or choosing to seek opportunities abroad.
However, a few steadfast cafe owners remain committed to preserving this culinary tradition. Syed Mohammed Razak, whose family has been in the restaurant business for generations, is determined to keep the legacy alive by modernizing their offerings and embracing new marketing strategies.
Loyal customers, many of whom have frequented these cafes for years, express their enduring love for Irani chai. They remember fondly the social atmosphere these cafes fostered and hope to see their continued presence in the city.
“Irani tea is part of my life; I enjoy it every time I’m out,” says a local regular. As these cafes face challenges, the community remains hopeful that the essence of Irani chai and the welcoming atmosphere of these cafes will endure for generations to come.
