Nestled along the Delhi-Haridwar highway in Uttar Pradesh, Raipur Nagli village presents a stark scene of incomplete homes and open drains. In a small room, a group of 12 men gathers to mourn the loss of 23-year-old Mohit Kumar, while the women grieve in another space. A photograph of Mohit adorned with offerings of rice and curd stands solemnly in the corridor, surrounded by flies swarming near a mustard oil lamp.
“Our family has faced three tragic deaths on this highway: my nephew, my mother, and now him,” recounts Vakeel Kumar, Mohit’s brother. He expresses frustration over the local police’s actions, describing how they asked his uneducated sister to sign an affidavit without providing clarity on its contents.
Mohit, an e-rickshaw driver, was reportedly attacked by a group of kanwariyas during their annual religious pilgrimage last week after his vehicle brushed past them. He tragically succumbed to his injuries on July 28, following five days of hospitalization.
Despite the family’s claims, local police have not filed a formal incident report. Instead, they released a statement suggesting that Mohit had been intoxicated and that a leg injury led to his death, dismissing the family’s accounts and stating that the affidavit corroborated their claims.
Kanwariyas are devotees of Shiva, transporting water from the Ganga to their homes across northern India as part of a barefoot pilgrimage that can stretch up to ten days. The season, peaking around the festival of Shivaratri on August 2, varies each year but continues through the Hindu month dedicated to Shiva.
“The kanwariyas were the ones intoxicated, not Mohit,” insists Vakeel, who temporarily left his pilgrimage to be with his brother. Inside the sparsely furnished room, the men lament the struggles faced by the poor, ultimately allowing Mohit’s body to be cremated without police intervention. They reflect on how the pilgrimage is evolving into a venue for unruly behavior, seemingly endorsed by state authorities.
State Support and Controversy
The Muzaffarnagar police recently issued a controversial order requiring eateries along the Kanwar Yatra route to display the names of their owners. This policy, soon adopted statewide, sparked public outrage over perceived discrimination, resulting in the Supreme Court intervening to stay these orders.
Additional alarming reports have emerged, including the assault of Mohd Parvez, a local, by kanwariyas and the vandalism of a Muslim family’s vehicle. Over a dozen incidents involving aggressive behavior from pilgrims have been reported, raising concerns about public safety.
In past years, the government proposed a lengthy kanwar route that would require the removal of thousands of trees, reflecting the ongoing tension between religious devotion and environmental impact.
The kanwariyas‘ journey, often intertwined with ideas of purity and dietary restrictions, has led to violence over the consumption of non-vegetarian food during the pilgrimage.
A Growing Religious Phenomenon
Along the highways, shops selling kanwariya merchandise thrive amid the throngs of devotees, with many dressing in saffron and sporting various Shiva-related symbols. Despite the oppressive heat, pilgrims persist, each motivated by personal reasons, including spiritual fulfillment and gratitude.
Amid the pilgrimage, camps provide respite for the weary, as government and private entities set up facilities to accommodate thousands. Traffic disruptions have enforced restrictions across key routes, impacting local commerce and school schedules.
Political figures have prominently positioned themselves along the pilgrimage route, with leaders engaging with the kanwariyas through symbolic gestures such as distributing flowers and washing their feet.
While some scholars note the recent emergence of the kanwar yatra in popular culture, its appeal continues to resonate with many Indians, navigating the intersections of faith, politics, and societal norms.
The Atmosphere of Pilgrimage
Small eateries along the route face challenges in accommodating the influx of pilgrims, leading some to close entirely during peak periods. Affected business owners report significant financial losses amid a backdrop of increasing tensions.
As the sun sets, the once quiet road transforms into a vibrant display of devotion, with music and parades heightening the festive atmosphere. Despite regulations on sound levels, loud music propels the energy of the kanwariyas.
While some express concerns about the changing nature of the pilgrimage, many find strength in community and shared experience. The procession of floats and celebratory displays attracts onlookers, creating a unique blend of religious devotion and cultural celebration. Amidst this, the stories of affected individuals echo the challenges posed by this evolving pilgrimage.
The Kanwar Yatra continues to be a focal point for understanding contemporary spiritual practices in India, intertwining tradition, communal identity, and modernity.
